Many years ago, I traveled through Japan — and one of my most vivid memories from that trip is was the toilets. In the middle of one January night, I got up, needing to go down the hall. The rocks in the Zen garden were covered by snow. There was no central heating. I could see my breath. A kimono had been put out for my trip to the bathroom, but it was comically small, and my slippers ended at the start of my heels. Shivering as I shuffled, I made my way to the shared bathroom of my ryokan. Pul
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